Surfing the Dunes of the Gulf (Cont.)
Camping in the Desert
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The dunes have proven their seductive charms. It must have been hours already, but I was in a trance until we reached our first destination. I had always wanted to try quad-biking. As someone who doesn't know how to ride a bike (yet), four wheels sound ideal - a great combination of power, speed, and balance. I was excited and hopped on without any hesitation. I wrapped my 'shamagh' (head scarf) tighter and braced myself. It was time to have fun. I must have gone over my ride time limit. I couldn't get enough of it! As an adrenaline junkie, I didn't stop once. I would gain momentum at high speeds and drive straight up a dune as if going for a flip. Things were safe most of the time, but I almost crashed and heavily injured myself. The one time I accidentally drove right off a small cliff, I almost fell upside-down. Phew! That was a close call. Relieved by my close encounter and exhilarated by this new experience, our time was up, and it was time to move on.
Setting sun in desert (2017)
Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023
As enjoyable as this was, the main event was yet to come. We kept on driving in a different direction this time. I like the sense of mystery I feel when I see this many people, literally, in the middle of nowhere. It makes me think that there could be anyone anywhere, but I wouldn't know until I see for myself. What a thrill. I am energized and excited to see what's next. The sandy ocean was changing its hue as the sun approached the horizon. The views became even more textured and three-dimensional. It is a thing of beauty to see so much sand with wavy impressions of the winds. Falcons are the pride of Arabian desert culture. I got the chance to hold one and pose for some pictures. I was falling in love with the desert by the minute, but the best was yet to come.
Me sporting a falcon on my first desert safari (2017)
Copyright © Nahom Assefa 2023
A whole day of traveling deeper and deeper into unknown lands gives you an unparalleled sense of calm. You grow bolder and sharper when your senses get some rest from the over-stimulation that characterizes our lives nowadays. Temperatures started to drop as dusk was nearing. We have finally arrived at the campsite. I have countless fantasies of such a scene inspired by many folktales and legends. I had recently read "A Tale of 1,001 Nights," and this setting seemed fitting for perhaps the 1,002nd night of magic to unfold. I was eager to see what the camp had in store for us. There was some time until the big show started, so we were left to wander around and take in the setting sun.
Tire tracks leading to sun setting behind dunes (2017)
Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023
I was seeing the power of the growing tourism industry at a remote outpost. There were so many activities and memorabilia to buy. Dubai is where money does a lot of the talking. I was there to experience the desert landscape and culture first-hand. And although my intentions were clear, I started seeing the ugly side of tourism that I came to loathe. Everyone was trying to sell something, conning for that next buck. I understand this fuels the economy and livelihood of so many, but it gets irritating after a certain point. It is hard to stay in the moment when money problems follow you into the most remote and barren landscapes. I had to actively fight off all forms of temptation to spend money so I could leave without empty pockets. It puts a strain on your willpower.
Footsteps on wavy sand in a barren desert (2017)
Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023
Despite that, I had the chance to do something I had wished to try for a while. They had camel rides, and it felt right to do it here and now. Camels fascinate me. I admire how they are designed and built with such divine engineering. They are ships of the sea indeed. The poor fellow assigned to me had my sympathies. The despair was evident, and I felt the gloomy sadness this camel must have felt for so long. I went for a few rounds and called it a day. It was a tame and redundant series of short laps in such a small area. The only thrilling part must have been when the camel got up from the ground while I was on its back. The rest of the slow walk was rather anticlimactic. I can't complain; there's always a first time.
Camel trained to carry around visiting tourists at desert camp (2017)
Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023
I continued to make my way around the campsite, taking pictures and writing in the sand. I had a brief chat with a couple of Australian gentlemen. The Ozzies got their hands on a sandboard and let me take it for a spin. It is just like snowboarding but less risky, I think. I wished the guys a great night and thanked them for the sandboard as I left. It was getting dark, and the stars started showing their brilliance where there was no light pollution or precipitation.
Time for a party in the desert. The night started smoothly, as we got to pick up dinner from a buffet and get seats alongside the platform stage. Dinner was delicious and filling, but we wanted our eyes to feast next. I was a big fan of belly dancing and had set expectations. Then came a very fair-skinned beauty on the stage, stealing the show and captivating our attention. She must be Lebanese. I was very enchanted. The fast-paced & dynamic, percussion-heavy, Arabian rhythms were the perfect accompaniment for her elaborate and enticing movement. Everything was in sync; I was blown away by her hip mobility and charisma. I couldn't stop filming, and suddenly she came straight to me, pointing at me with a cane she used as part of her act. I froze in shock; it was interesting to be noticed by the centerpiece. She commanded the stage for a long while without losing our attention. Then came other acts. There was a flame spitter who showed all kinds of fire tricks. Then came a peculiarly dressed man draped in a skirt-like Arabian outfit glowing bright green and red.
Desert safari camp performer (2017)
Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023
Quite a spectacle we witnessed, secluded from the rest of the world. I was delighted with how the day went. It was refreshing and eye-opening. It was getting dark, and we had to leave. While making our way out, we stumbled upon shisha pipes. It was complimentary for the night. I insisted I take a couple of drags before leaving. So I did, and I was amazed by the smoothness of the smoke. It gently flows down your throat and gives you a buzz when standing up. I wish I wasn't in a rush, but it was late. We left quicker than we came, speeding through the empty vastness. The desert is even more mysterious at night. There is nothing to be seen for miles in all directions. It is pitch black, and the skies generously display all the stars without concealing anything. We returned in less time than it took to get to the camp. But who am I to say? The desert is the timekeeper of all happenings here. It has seen countless days like this and blessed me with only a sliver of its riches. I would love to come here someday and maybe even spend a night outdoors. What happens in the desert can only be lived in the desert.
Tire tracks in sand at night (2017)
Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023
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