Across the Abyss (cont.)
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Everyone here, from the village children who waved and ran to us to the lodge staff, is so friendly and welcoming. It has been so long since I came across simple, down-to-earth people happy to host me and share what they have. The chef was quite a character. He introduced himself so graciously and asked for our names. His charisma was very charming, and despite his relatively old age, the man was very youthful and energetic. He stuck up a conversation with me and started to open up spontaneously. He told me he was from Sudan and had stayed here for decades. I could see the wisdom in his eyes, and he sensed something positive about me, claiming I was a humble and light soul. I was flattered. He divulged a hobby and played a video of him singing on his phone. I wasn’t a record label exec or headhunter, but it felt like my opinion mattered so much at the moment. I was very honored, and I applauded his passion. I knew he was the type of gentleman I could have endless conversations with, but I had to leave at that moment.
A herd grazing on fields that used to be marshlands (2023)
Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023
Just outside the entry gate, I was getting an idea for the landscape when I saw a bus riding the rugged dirt road like a sea wave. I had a glimpse from the other side back when I didn’t know there were people here. We headed to the woods with our entrusted tour guide, who was also a self-taught bird guide. Bird watching is one of those seemingly “boring” activities I knew I would enjoy once I tried it. Things got exciting quickly as we stumbled upon a vast field which we soon learned was marshlands from the excess lake water. I would have loved to see that, but this is quite a sight too. I was spotting birds everywhere, then a monkey and a couple of Olive Baboons casually passed. After a brief walk, we entered the forest and instantly felt the cool shade. Here is an entirely different world where the gigantic old trees whisper their wisdom. We walked past ancient Podocarpus, ‘Kitita,’ ‘Warka,’ ‘Sete,’ and Fig trees. Lots and lots of fig trees with elevated branch networks that looked like suspended roots. This was something out of a movie. After tedious attempts hurling sticks at the sky-high branches, I got the chance to try a fig for the first time.
The lush forests of the East Langano Nature Reserve (2023)
Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023
We found the mini-waterfall and took a quick dip, then continued our expedition. I had seen plenty of birds at this point. Honeyguides, Hornbills, Clovers, as well as various Starlings and Sparrows, among other species I can’t identify. I was in awe of how much the place was sprawling with life. And a special reminder of the regenerative abundance of nature came in the form of the spring I mentioned. The same water I showered with a while back drew me to its source. I got low and took a sip, then another one, until I quenched my thirst.
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Clear surface of the spring water that supplies Bishangari Lodge (2023)
Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023
The thrill of the forest came to a gentle landing when we made our way out via an alternate route and reached the lake shore. This site also used to be a swamp. Since it’s not a beach, but rather wet minerally soil, it is the ideal breeding ground for the next group of wildlife on my bucket list – water birds. It’s the golden hour, and our timing couldn’t have been better. It was feeding time. Flocks of Egyptian geese, Herons, Great White Egrets, Pelicans, and solitary African Fish Eagles were all over the coast, so beautifully lit by the warm retreating sun. We made it back to the lodge in time and caught a breathtaking sunset, then watched the water and sky turn dark.
Dusk view of the East Langano Nature Reserve by the lake shore (2023)
Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023
Nighttime is pitch black when you are this remote, you feel the isolation more, and the silence becomes louder. All you hear during such times are the crashing waves, crickets chirping, and the occasional animal calls from the forest. Your heart beats slower, and conversations take on an intimate whispering mood. The tranquility of the place is unmatched. If the world had to end most peacefully, such nights would be viable candidates. We had a worthwhile day well-spent together doing what we love. This has to be our favorite trip together so far, with lots more to come. The chef caught up with us once more and gave us his blessing, complimenting our union. He shared some of the magic this place is gifted with. He told us some come here and cry. I am honored to be among the few who get to visit the unknown side; I will never forget this. I have finally made it across the abyss.
Sun setting over Lake Langano (2023)
Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023
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