Surfing the Dunes of the Gulf

My First Desert Safari

When I think of drastic fortune shifts, I often think of places like The United Arab Emirates. It is not an easy feat to completely turn around circumstances and fate in a handful of decades. The Emirates have been able to achieve this after uniting and discovering their golden ticket – "Black Gold." Oil money is a hotly debated topic in some circles. It is as greasy and dark as some industries get, but it is not the worst hand. Miracles can happen when a nation can dodge the resource curse trap. Dubai and the other Emirates are good examples. Previously uninhabited lands with sparse fishing villages have now become not only regional but global hubs of trade and commerce. This sudden influx of wealth and attention soon allowed the most diversified Emirate to become a tourist hot spot. The pearl fishing community now hosts ten times more expats than locals.

Downtown Dubai as seen from Burj Khalifa, Dubai (2017)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023

Dubai now has more annual tourists than residents. All forms of tourism are thriving and still growing here. It seems too superficial and "artificial" to me. I boldly contend that Dubai is a parody of the 21st century. That doesn't mean I can devalue what Dubai has achieved and can offer. There is plenty to experience here in this cosmopolitan metropolis. I cautiously dread it because it brings out my materialistic side. Money buys you things even your imagination can't fabricate in this modern oasis. The glass and steel forests have a seductive pull I was drawn to the last time I visited. My wants have changed this time; I seek more authentic experiences.

 

I had heard of desert safaris being popular activities. I had always been infatuated with the idea of venturing into the desert since it represents the unknown. Such vastness calls an adventurer like me, and this seemed like my chance. We were off into the sand desert shielded by the city from the Persian Gulf. Although I'm not a big fan of touristy experiences, I knew this was an opportunity to let my heart and senses wander. Dubai has an elongated layout that spreads somehow thin across the coastline. It takes a while to cross from end to end. You can tell the ride is about to begin when the iconic city skyline starts to fade into the distance. There were construction projects just outside the city's periphery. The human touch gradually faded out of existence as it slowly receded to the background of the scene and our minds. A very pivotal experience that I needed soon followed.

Distant Dubai skyline (2017)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023

The city was hot and humid enough to make you lose your mind. I can't imagine how harsh the dry desert heat would be if our car didn't have air conditioning. I have always wanted to cross a desert in a caravan. This trip was more inspiration and motivation than I could ask for. After almost an hour into the drive, we were surrounded by sand as far as the eye could see. Not a single cloud was in sight as the skies were clear blue. There was not much vegetation other than the occasional bushes closer to death than life. I wasn't here for biota; I wanted to be surprised. I am always seeking grandeur when I travel. I am perpetually thirsty for a sip of new experiences that shake my foundation and redefine my realm of possibilities. Can you imagine what happens when sensations and realizations bring you down to your knees?

Wavy sand dunes in the outskirts of Dubai (2017)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023

Sand dunes have a way of taking elegantly wavy yet defined shapes. It was empty from horizon to horizon, split down the middle by the gray asphalt road. I enjoy scenic landscapes very much, but I didn't expect much more than that on this trip. I slowly started to learn I was (for lack of a better term) uninformed. People might consider the view monotonous after seeing miles of nothing but sand dunes. I was almost headed toward that state when I started to notice something. The matter wasn't about the landmasses we were passing by. The greater wisdom and beauty lie in the one thing a sandy desert has most abundantly - sand.

Setting sun and desert plant (2017)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023

I learned a lot of life lessons by observing how sand behaves and interacts with the elements. I started noticing how it reflects light at particular angles, which reminded me that glass comes from sand. I was reflecting on how sand is a timekeeper, used in hourglasses and quartz watches for a reason. Sand doesn't dissolve in water. Its particles are so coarse they don't stick to each other; it flows and wanders. Sand is very dynamic and fluid, able to change form in time – both short and long-term. I started to best see how sand behaves when in such an abundance.

My observations started when I saw small patches of sand piling on the road. The thin layers of sand obeyed the winds and retained the shape of the last breeze, then yielding to the next. Sand is like a photograph, a framed imprint of the moment. Despite its fluidity, sand also holds up and can preserve what it has captured for a long time. Footprint dents left in sand stay long until eventually covered up by multiple layers. It taught me how legacies are left behind and can serve to guide those following a meaningful trail amidst an infinite void. However, any legacy ends at some point, and nothing is noble enough to transcend the winds of time indefinitely. I occupied my mind by pondering upon these profound revelations and others during our long drive. I am thrilled to remember that we haven’t even reached our destination.

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