Backpacking Across the Mountains of Shewa (Cont.)

Ankober to Debre Sina (Part 2)

…


After a quick breakfast and a slightly late start, we hiked down the face of the same mountain we had climbed the previous day. There was growing confidence following the last challenge. Team chemistry was also helping lift our spirits as we learned more about each other. Temperatures rose as soon as the sun peeked at us from above the nearest peak. You would expect the landscape to become familiar after a while, but it is quite the contrary. Every twist and turn reveals more spectacles that overwhelm the eyes in their varied transitioning beauty. There was such varied terrain it looked like a mosaic of patched fields with a charming off-set order. It sometimes looks like the rice paddy fields of Indonesia or tea fields in Sri Lanka. Cattle herders and shepherds, along with their livestock, enjoyed their boundless resting and grazing spots. It was something out of a fairytale as we continued our quest for hours, seeing multiple streams, small churches, and wooden bridges as we journeyed along the side of the hills.


Panoramic view of mountain top villages in North Shewa (2022)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023


There are spectacular vistas when looking up and down below from wherever we were. We stopped at a small village for lunch, treated by a dear old lady and her family, who served us what food they had for that day. They gave us directions to reach our final destination quickest. After trading a few stories and receiving our well-wishes, we were off to another forest-covered mountain top.


Panoramic view of the mountain tops in North Shewa (2022)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023


‘Wof Washa’ literally translates to “Bird Cave.” It was aptly named because one hears bird echoes from a distance. This enchanted forest seems like no one has ever set foot in it. It is hard to find trails to follow, but we made it to the top of this mountain, thinking it was enough for today. Little did we know, there awaited an even longer trek downhill, deeper into the heart of the forest. We continued trekking into ‘Wof Washa,’ abundant with wildlife and beautified with warm sunlight coming from the side. It becomes hard to tell whether this is a tropical jungle suspended in high elevation. We crossed more streams, hurdled fallen trees, and reached the end of the forest with weary bodies. The weight of our bags on our shoulders and the load on our feet made us somewhat cranky when we reached what we thought was our campsite.


Forgotten Vistas 3 (2022)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023


A kind gentleman in charge of keeping peace in the area offered to host us all for the night. Exhausted and out of words, we accepted his kind invitation due to his sincerity and concern for our well-being had we stayed out in the wilderness. His warm home and hospitable family took good care of us. It was a long day, and some of us lacked the energy to eat dinner. We celebrated our milestone and went to sleep.


Dry waterway trail in evergreen forests, North Shewa (2022)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023


The final day awaits us with the easiest leg of our journey ahead. Having woken up a bit late this time, I went to where the sun shone to warm up and enjoy a different view. I came across a frail-looking man who had heard about the foreign guests and took some interest in me. He struck up a conversation and told me some legends about the forest we went through the previous day. He told me about a local lodge near completion that got burnt down by bandits. It was a tragic ending to a promising project. It is more unfortunate since the locals are very open to hosting visitors. He even mentioned how he and others were offered to relocate to other lands by a socialist regime that ended up wiping out those who accepted the offer once they were displaced from their home. He felt sympathy for the unlucky but pride in choosing not to be uprooted. The latest ethnic civil war had the offensive side cease their invasion here. He showed me his home and farm plot and then wished me well. We said our goodbyes and I was back where we spent the night.


Village in the mountains of North Shewa (2022)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023


We charged up with a quick breakfast and set off around another mountain. There were yet more scenic views and calmer streams flowing across our path. Flatter farmlands, corn plantations, and occasional fruit trees revealed themselves as the gentle sun climbed the horizon. We were almost there, and the next village was the assurance we needed. We heard the van would come here. What a relief that was, time for the final break. We waited a long while and enjoyed our snacks, conversations, and volleyball. The only option we had was to hitch a ride on a load truck headed in the same direction. It would be a thrilling experience as we loaded our gear in the back and all climbed in. The road was bumpy. We could fly off the top unless we held tight. The truck reached its stop, and we hopped off right in front of a local elementary school. Is anyone up for more volleyball? Our van arrived not too long after. We drove to Debre Sina and stopped to pick up some snacks and drinks from the Sunday market. We drove higher into the mountains and away for good this time, through the tunnels and past the landscape.


Sunday market, Debre Sina (2022)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023

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