Backpacking Across the Mountains of Shewa

Ankober to Debre Sina (Part 1)

Backpacking is a physically demanding activity involving hiking and carrying necessary gear, sometimes food, for an extended trip. This would be my first time backpacking, and I was last to board the bus after being picked up near the northern A2 highway exit via Legetafo. I requested the van’s passenger seat, and it was saved for me. I hopped in and began to take in the distant views of the countryside just beyond the city area. It was a beautiful Friday morning, the perfect time to escape the city chaos. We passed by plenty of schoolchildren and workers heading into the city while we went in the opposite direction. We drove by the old settlement of Sendafa, then Aleltu and Sheno, crossing multiple checkpoints (both reasonable and unreasonable), with officers inquiring about our intentions and destination. We started to get a grip of the landscape beyond here and ventured further into Northern Shewa. The pace of life began to slow down the longer we drove. It was time for lunch, so we stopped by Debre Birhan.

Ankober, North Shewa (2022)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023

Our adventure hadn’t begun yet, but the scenery started to envelop us with its charms. One of our tires had an issue. We repaired it instantly and were off to Ankober. Everyone hopped off the van with all packed items and maximum energy – it's time! We began our trail downhill towards an area called ‘fuafuate’ (waterfalls) to get warmed up. I started the arduous trek by hearing about how prior leadership used force to forge the trails we were taking. We passed by fertile lands full of broad beans and grains, flowers and trees of all sizes and ages. These are vast farms and pastures where people live in harmony and communal stewardship towards their land. The animals are content, and the children are joyous at any time. They have the autonomy and security to go vast distances without guardians. They hold eye contact more than the adults and tell their names without hesitation.

A group of children at the backpacking starting point, Ankober (2022)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023

Our first break was at a small neighborhood in ‘Temke’ at the bottom of what seemed like a bowl-shaped paradise. Territorial terms are skewed and somewhat magnified here. A village is called a town, a town is called a city, and a district is called a country. Talk about scope and definitions, huh? It can make you feel like you are backpacking cross-country, coupled with the vastness. There is a calming effect when isolated by jagged terrain where everyone is doing their daily chores and leading a simple life. The bright and playful people offered us snacks and drinks and kept us company as we enjoyed a view of changing weather. Half the sky had bright clouds on ocean-blue skies, and the other half was darkening with ominous clouds that could be a storm. It was time to leave, so we said our thank yous and goodbyes.

Panoramic view of a mountain village in North Shewa (2022)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023

We went up the next mountain with dense forest coverage and testing slopes. It was breathtaking inside the woods, home to old trees, shrubs, and rocks the size of huts. This part was the most challenging so far; half of us were out of shape and tested to our limits by the steepness. After all the self-doubt and regretful questions, we reached our first campsite, rewarded with a well-earned view. We peaked at the summit at the golden hour, welcomed by a panoramic view of the golden sunset and peach-colored clouds with shadows tinted with all shades of blue and violet. It started to get chilly as darkness encroached on us; the winds blew in all directions and robbed the unguarded of precious body heat with each breeze. We gathered around a bonfire after setting up our tents and having dinner. The moon and stars started to glow brighter, and temperatures drastically dropped as day gave way to night. I was appropriately dressed, and despite the roaring winds, I was in and out of deep sleep for almost nine hours.

Morning view from a campsite in the mountains of North Shewa (2022)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023

Dawn was upon us, and like all cold nights, the last one inevitably passed. Some slept like a baby through winter, while others suffered. Regardless of how well we rested, we were all embarking on the same mission for a full day this time. I had planned to catch a sunrise before leaving, but that was impossible from where we camped because there was a mountain blocking our view. I should’ve saved my energy for later, but this was worth it. I went up the hurdle, and there was my prize. At the perfect time and place, the young and rising sun flashed its rays into my eyes just before heading into a floating train of clouds. The light was diffused from then on, and the sun tried shooting some rays through the clouds, but the scene was still unbelievable. I had stumbled upon a village where some early risers had begun their days and exchanged greetings followed by small talk. I walked further into the barley fields waiting for direct sunlight again. I spotted up to four layers of mountain chains fading into the horizon with darkening blue shades. I turned and spotted a vulture gracefully gliding mid-air like a watch guard amidst loose, dark gray clouds. Every step taken was worth it, but I had to return to the clan.

Morning sight of a mountain top village in North Shewa (2022)

Copyright © Kidus Assefa 2023

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